Burgundy 2022 En Primeur

By THOMAS BUXTON

On a brisk and luminous morning in January, over sixty vintners from Burgundy convened at Lindley Hall for our esteemed Burgundy 2022 En Primeur tasting event.

The warmth of their reunions, akin to old acquaintances rekindling, underscored the profound sense of fellowship and community that pervades the Burgundian winemaking fraternity. Regardless of prior acquaintance, the air was alive with the congenial hum of French conversation and laughter, as preparations unfolded with the setting of tables, the unpacking of bottles, and the arrangement of corkscrews.

In the midst of the preparations, I had the pleasure of conversing with Louis Vallet of Château de Charodon and Florian Remy of Domaine Chantal Remy. Having previously interviewed them at their vineyards in October, their presence in London, now donned in formal attire, presented a striking contrast. Louis greeted me with his characteristic vigor, expressing his delight at being in London.

I was entrusted with the privilege of serving the wines for Domaine Michel Bouzereau. Upon ensuring the impeccable condition of the four wines, I eagerly awaited the arrival of the day's first tasters - esteemed members of the press and the wine industry.

Given the exceptional quality of the 2022 vintage in Burgundy, anticipation was high among the press. Their goal was to sample an extensive array of Burgundy wines, from its diverse communes, with the intention of delivering a thorough review of the vintage to their audiences. This year's press tasting was notably the most attended in my seven-year tenure at Hweb Wine. Observing the focused faces of journalists as they sampled and then hurriedly documented their impressions, I attempted to decipher their thoughts on the Meursault wines I presented, though their reactions remained inscrutable, concealed within their notebooks.

In the brief interlude before the tasting session for our private clients commenced, I seized the opportunity to explore wines from other producers and gather their insights on the celebrated 2022 vintage.

When I inquired about Guillaume Michaut of Domaine 47°N 3°E's satisfaction with the 2022 vintage, it felt almost superfluous. Adam Bruntlett, our Burgundy Buyer, had lauded it as “one of the finest vintages I've experienced in over a decade,” with both the quality and quantity surpassing that of the previous year.

Guillaume, with his characteristic charm, expressed his elation over the 2022 wines. He shared details about each of his four Chablis cuvées, with particular enthusiasm for Cairn, a new offering derived from vineyards inherited from his father and grandfather. His narrative not only highlighted the excellence of the vintage but also the deep-rooted heritage and familial bonds inherent in Burgundian winemaking.

As I ventured towards the Domaine Ghislaine Barthod section, the palpable excitement surrounding their wines was unmistakable. Amidst the bustling crowd, I savored the Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes by Ghislaine, a standout with its rich core of ripe strawberry and black cherry flavors, complemented by firm tannins and vibrant acidity.

Were I to pen my reflections on this vintage, akin to the diligent journalists around me, I would emphatically attest to the unparalleled quality of the 2022 vintage. From emerging talents like Guillaume to venerable institutions such as Domaine Faiveley, each producer has embraced the year with zeal, crafting a vintage that is destined to enchant collectors and aficionados alike.